Tag Archives: regal seven

The Golden Palace

THE SESSION #128— BEER BLOGGING FRIDAY

The Session, a.k.a. Beer Blogging Friday, is a chance for the world’s beer bloggers  to get together once a month and write from their own unique perspective on a single topic. Each month, a different beer blogger hosts the Session, chooses a topic and creates a round-up listing all of the participants, along with a short pithy critique of each entry.

Deep Beer is hosting The Session #128 for October 2017. The theme chosen is Bottle Shops: Good, Bad & The Ugly.

So, here I am about to contribute my second (or is it third?) piece to the enjoyable conflagration of beerness that is The Session.  I thought that a reflection on my local bottle shop here in Yangon (Rangoon), Burma, might stand as an interesting counterpoint to most of the other pieces in the round-up.

So there it is – the Golden Palace, a hole-in-the-wall bottle shop on the corner of 46th St and Bogyoke Rd in downtown Rangoon.  Easy to walk past – doesn’t look like much, does it?  But this deceptively small cave has plenty of goodies within.  Let’s peer inside, past the Heineken Regal Seven branding…

As you enter the three-metre squared room the configuration is clear: on your right are whiskeys and liqueurs, on your left are wines, vodkas and domestic liquor, and in the fridge and at the back is beer.  The selection of spirits is impressive for Burma – they are all illegally (or given the volume of trade, perhaps “informally”) imported.

Because of the tax on  spirits here any of these bottles sells for substantially cheaper than in my home, Australia.  On this visit I picked up a bottle of Jameson’s for AU$18 which at home would run AU$35 or more.  The big American bourbons go for much less.

But a 700ml bottle of 40%ABV Myanmar whiskey sells for US$1-5, so even though the foreign whiskeys are cheap, the locals tend to opt for the Burma-distilled stuff unless they’re showing off.

I have asked the owner to get in some Bushmills several times to no avail.  Because he relies on border traders for stock, the variety of import supply is entirely out of his hands.  They can’t just order something different; they are presented with options, and they choose accordingly.

There is one particular thing I value this bottle shop for: it has Hoegaarden.  I haven’t come across witbier at any bottle-o other than the Golden Palace, anywhere in Myanmar.  So when I crave that orange peel and coriander, I sidle up to the Palace and buy out their stock.  A single bottle goes for US$2.  I can’t vouch for their freshness but none have ever been undrinkable.

They use a simple notepad and pen for keeping track of sales at the Golden Palace.  The space is so very small, but because labour is cheap there are usually at least two people working at any one time.  Unlike other bottle shops, they’re never drinking on the job.

On this visit, one boy was sitting and hammering flat ring-pulls from Dagon beer cans on the concrete ground.  When I asked what he was doing in Burmese, he replied, “lucky draw”.  He was preparing the ring pulls to send back to the brewery for cash redemption.

These peculiar metal contraptions adorn the back wall, holding the domestic longneck stouts on offer.  Black Shield claims to be a Baltic porter/stout, but that’s rubbish.  Both these brands are tropical all the way – and not very tasty to my palate, which expects something a little more from a stout than boozy warmth and saccharine sweetness.

Next Friday Burbrit, the first craft brewery in Myanmar, will be launching a London Porter and is guaranteed to be much tastier.  This will be the first time Myanmar has had a domestically-produced porter for decades.

When the British first came to Burma, the soldiers of the Crown were each given a “porter ration” and the first industrial brewery was quick to brew dark beers after setting up shop in 1886.  Unfortunately with independence and nationalisation so went the porter.

The total of my purchases, a dead simple addition equation, is methodically put through the calculator and written into the notebook.  I pay and leave, mentioning once more that I’d really, really, really like some Bushmills.

The Session and the Pub and the People

The Session is a periodic series of blog posts by bloggers interested in beer.  For the 113th edition, beer bloggers Boak and Bailey have issued a call out for simple, descriptive evaluations of public houses in the style of The Pub and the People, the 1943 book that was the eleventh in the Mass Observation series focusing on the “anthropology of ourselves”; the everyday life of British people.  I don’t often contribute to The Session though I follow it closely – this month I have the time and capability and I am quite keen to insert a non-Western venue into the mix.

The pub I am sitting in is called “Suzuki Drink” and is on Bogalayzay Rd in downtown Yangon, Myanmar.  It’s 3PM on a Tuesday in the middle of the rainy season.  The pub sits on a fairly narrow road, made narrower by bumper-to-bumper parked cars.  It is on the ground floor and opens directly onto the street, with no door or barrier to speak of and eight large pot plants dominating the pavement.  An air conditioner blares away in one corner and tasteful realist paintings adorn the southern wall.  There is a musical theme with the subjects of most paintings being Burmese women seated or kneeling over various musical instruments, their likeness captured from the rear.  A violin itself is also fixed in the centre of the southern wall.

An almost requisite stylised image of Daw Aung San Suu Kyi hangs close to the single television and in a large wall niche a collection of pottery, gourds, traditional instruments and tortoise shells draw the eye.  There are chairs for forty pax and the tables are tacky MDF.  A substantial bar sits in the northwestern corner with a single tap dispensing Regal Seven, a Heineken brand exclusively brewed in Myanmar.  It is surrounded by nice-looking glassware, Regal Seven-branded beer towers and a Conti espresso machine.  Further along the wall is a one-metre-tall illuminated advertisement for Regal Seven, claiming the beer is “Refreshingly Smooth” and has “Extra Cold Filtration”.

Only one other patron is drinking when I arrive, a middle-aged man, but he leaves before I can power up my laptop to write this post.  There are seven staff going about various chores; in their downtime they watch Myanmar Idol, a domestic talent show in the familiar Idol format on the single television.  Some of the chores include manual bookkeeping, buying ingredients from the local market for the kitchen, cleaning glasses and fiddling with the Wifi for their comparatively white, tall customer.

Just before I leave two young Burmese men arrive and order fried noodles and Myanmar beer.  They don’t talk and seem happy to watch Myanmar Idol.

Suzuki Drink sits in the middle ground of pubs in Yangon.  It is slightly more upscale than neighbourhood beer stations, which serve glasses of beer at about half the price, but not in the territory of the many fancy rooftop bars that are currently mushrooming across the city.  The beers on offer are Regal Seven, the aforementioned Heineken rice lager, Myanmar Beer, a slightly more bitter rice lager brewed by the Kirin-UMEHL conglomerate and Tiger and ABC Stout, both also Heineken beers.  A long cocktail list is also available, from simple Screwdrivers to the complex “AK 47”.  The food menu is substantial and inspired by cuisine from Thailand.

The Mass Observations books are tremendous for their empirical data, coloured though it is.  The Pub and the People in particular has been used well by gender studies scholars to point out that the public house in England was a firmly patriarchal institution that existed to reinforce the subordination of women.  In this way we see the value of abstracted empiricism, difficult though it can be to justify at the time.  In my many forays into (much busier than Suzuki) public houses in Myanmar I see similar gender dynamics at play and will be presenting on this at the Burma Studies Conference in DeKalb, Illinois this October.